Cinder Lake Ranch
can I have?
That is HUGE
OMG how long would it take to get around the arena ?
am i on drugs?
Am I the only person thinking this is probably slightly unnecessarily large or
IT IS UNNECESSARILY LARGE BUT I JUST WANT TO GALLOP IN IT
"Now canter on the long side" *two fucking years later, still cantering on the long side*
Imagine doing a sliding stop down that…
imagine the grids you could get set up.. LOL the horses would end up so fit!
Gem Twist and Laura Chapot win Tampa’s Volvo Grand Prix of Florida, at the time the largest GP ever (with 80 to start).
History lesson time: He’s 17 here. 17 and still eager to jump and clearing GP fences with little to no effort. Gem Twist vies with Milton and Big Ben for the title of “Greatest Showjumper in History”… it’s no wonder why.
Love love love this horse, such a freaking super power. They don’t make them like this anymore.
Laura Chapot looks a lot like just a passenger here.. Gem twist knows his job. Never been a super fan of the way Laura Chapot rides, just don’t like the get-er-done way she rides, like in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeBY-6nobKw
i’m more of a fan of the technical rides, but of course i shouldn’t really judge ;)
Anonymous asked: Do you have any tips for trying to sit at the canter? I am used to being in a half seat and now when I try to sit I get popped out of the tack a lot.
On the lunge line. No stirrups. Close your eyes, and melt into the horse. Picture your seat following the canter from back to front along the saddle like a swing.
Or even no stirrups by yourself. You really just have to train your brain to SIT.
When you take your stirrups back, lengthen them and think about sitting down into the saddle and moving across the saddle back to front.
OK so drop your stirrups completely and get your legs/butt to feel like jelly by swinging them back and forth and then just let them hang down… do this at the walk and then canter.. trust me it really helps… eventually you should be able to just get the feeling in your seat without having the lack of tone in your whole leg… but in the beginning to get the feel just think relax everything…. relaxation is key.
I’d like to see all our riders learn to alternate comfortably between a full seat at the canter/gallop (with no rolling or posting) and the half-seat (‘two-point position’), and then ease into the full seat during the last few strides of every approach.” Why throw away — before a fence — one of the greatest natural aids given to us, the seat? American riders need to learn how to sit in their saddles.
I’ve ridden all types of horses throughout my life. I’ve ridden the deadheads, the shitheads, the buckers, the rearers, the lazies, the opinionated mares, the OTTB’s and rarely some push-buttons. I have to say that the most difficult type of horse to ride is the sensitive horses, like my mare.
100 percent agree… the sensitive types are usually the most difficult horses to ride… just for the fact that you HAVE to be SO on the ball when riding them.. you have to be perfect. the sensitive types will react to every little movement that you do.. no matter how small or weather you intended it or not. (you could just hold your breath, or have a slight tension in your neck or something)
just my two cents…. and no i’m not saying this because i have one and want my horse to be the hardest to ride… i actually own a completely different type of horse… but I’ve ridden all types and that’s my personal conclusion.
Anonymous asked: could you give me tips on leg yield ? my horse (hes a level 2 dressage horse) and i struggle with the leg yield ( being the only reason that my instructor suggests that we dont debut in level 2 this season) my instructor has been helping me but i just cant get it! we seem to be having way to much bend through the body, and when i ask him he just runs instead of actually stepping sideways and forward :) great job with Val!!!!
Alright so if he is at Second Level than he should be overly familiar with the leg yield already and it isn’t like you are teaching this exercise on a green horse - and believe me be thankful for that! It is much easier to make yourself correct and then go teach a greenie things :] And I am assuming level 2 is second level which if I am wrong please correct me! A second level horse should be proficient in shoulder in, haunches in, and renvers as well as 10 meter circles. They should be starting to show a degree of collection in their normal paces as well as in this lateral work that was just mentioned. However since a leg yield is also a lateral movement his knowledge of more advanced lateral work should definitely help you! And first level is complete with it’s own challenges as well. Don’t skip levels! Each of the directives presented on the tests and specific to the levels are there to teach you something about the training and becoming a better rider. If you haven’t ever taken the time to really read them I suggest you do (and the directives on every move). There is so much information packed into the tests themselves that gets overlooked when people think of them as just a recording of a score.
Anyways before I get lost from the point of your ask! A leg yield is a sideways movement where the horse is slightly flexed away from the direction of travel so that the rider can see his inside eye and nostril. The leg yield requires forward movement and sideways movement at the same time where the inside legs cross in front of the outside. I want to stress that there is NO bend in a leg yield, only flexion. The horses body is completely straight between the riders hands and legs (and that bend is in the body and flexion is in the neck). The leg yield in the first level tests is ridden from the center line (or at least it was when I was riding it) so I am going to start with that in mind. I don’t particularly like the leg yield nose-to-wall exercise and never have done it with my horses.
Start by riding down the centerline in a walk. Make sure you have the horse straight between the hands and legs. Then flex him right just enough that you can see his nostril. From there I want you to look over his left ear and put your right leg on and ask for his body to move underneath you to the left (we are going to be leg yielding to the left). I want you to ask him for only two to three steps and then you need to go straight immediately. The flexion never changes, his frame never changes. He takes two to three sideways steps and then goes straight. I want you to be super conscious of your eyes making the transition from looking over his left ear back to straight when you stop the leg yield as well. And that’s it - you praise him and go on. This is the biggest thing you can do to make sure that YOU are in control of the leg yield and that you are asking for the movement and he is not riding one himself. From there this builds into you going straight, leg yielding three steps, going straight 5 steps, leg yielding 3 steps, straight and so on forever. Try not to get next to the rail because horses love to suck into the rail and take over. Save going all the way to the rail for when you feel confident of your control of his lateral movement. He has to always stay walking forward at all times and in fact it is perfectly fine if he covers more ground forward than sideways to begin with. Only ask for what you can control. Do it in the walk until you are sick of it and you think it is completely stupid. This is how we start teaching the leg yield to anyone the very first time.
Progressing from there another exercise I enjoy is leg yield left/right to the opposite leg yield right/left. Starting the same way off the rail you begin the leg yield in the direction of your choosing. Take three steps, straighten and go forward, then ask the horse to take three steps the opposite direction. This is a great precursor to the changing of bend needed beyond first level because it asks the horse to shift his weight when he changes direction. It is also the first step to building to someday doing zig-zags. Again, the straighten and walking forward for 3-5 steps is the absolute key. I have done a lot of this same concept with the half-pass as well as incorporating other lateral exercises. It is absolutely great.
I also really enjoy thinking about leg yield from being on a circle. This might be a great option for you if you are struggling with too much bend in the body because the circle takes care of managing the bend for you because it uses it as a way to turn. Start on a slightly small 20 meter circle if you are in a regulation arena, preferably in the middle of the arena. If you are not in a regulation dressage arena still pick an area where you have about 20 meters to work with that is open. Start by riding the horse straight and correct on the circle in a nice working trot. Then think about leg yielding in on the circle from the outside leg. At this point you really do not need to worry about changing the flexion too much or messing with his head position. Keeping the horse soft and supple, connected to the hand with the back up and the hind end moving forward is all that should be on your mind. Your outside leg comes on and his whole body moves in three steps. Then you ride your new smaller circle. Don’t keep going; don’t rapidly try to size your circle down to a 15 meter or 10 meter or 7 meter volte. I don’t care if your three steps end you up on a 19 meter circle if you are in control and asking for those steps. Then when the horse is connected and in a good moment with everything working correctly you ask for another three steps leg yield in and ride that new circle line. You have to be aware you are always riding your line and your circle size - not the horses. Every time I do this with a rider they inevitably end up back on the horses preferred line which is a nice big circle. Then when they try to correct it they manage to make it small on one side and large on the other - a perfect pretty egg. You are riding a CIRCLE; don’t forget it.
To progress the exercise from this point add leg yielding out. Again the head and neck flexion and set do not need to move. You as a rider should be focused on the rhythm not changing, the horse being relaxed in the work, and the connection being correct from back to front. Again, a few steps and ride that line. Control of the line is the key. That is what is going to translate into easy and soft lateral work.
Hopefully these options make sense. Awareness of your own body position is key when you start asking for anything lateral. Be sure your own body is reflection what you are asking for, no hands floating or pulling where they shouldn’t be and no seat twisting around trying to make things go. Sit square in the saddle like you are a grand prix rider - straight, tall, elegant, and effective. Ask like you mean it and the horse knows what you are going for but be forgiving if it doesn’t work the first time. :D
And thanks for the question! Sorry it took so long to answer but I knew it would be a longer reply and wanted to do you justice and not skimp.